L'Espagne

L'Espagne - this is where I have spent the last few days. Given the number pictures and stories I have to share, I will be writing this blog in stages over the next week.  

Day 1 (actually Thursday evening)

The very first student I met and befriended at my language school was Gemma. She lives and works in Barcelona, but had decided to brush up on her French for a few weeks in the fall. At that time, we had talked about getting together for a subsequent visit before I left. With only two weeks of school remaining we decided if we were going to make it happen, it was this week-end or not at all. Being the rebel that I am, I even took a day off school to spend a longer weekend with her in Spain. The direct train from Montpellier to Barcelona takes about 3 hours and I arrived there just before 9 p.m. Gemma met me at the station and together we took a taxi to "my place". Gemma owns and manages a few apartments in the city and she kindly booked a small, but well appointed studio apartment for me to use. Once we arrived at "my place" we enjoyed a glass of wine, some baguette and cheese (which I had brought with me from France) while we caught up on one another's news. At about 11:30, she suggested we go out to buy a map and then maybe find a nice bar to have another glass of wine. Even though I was pretty tired, I thought I'll only be able to take advantage of this opportunity once, so go for it. We walked to La Rambla or Las Ramblas (I have seen it written both ways) which is a major street in central Barcelona that is very popular with tourists and locals alike. Despite the late hour, it was just bustling. People were everywhere, kiosks were open and cafes and bars were filled with patrons. It is a beautiful wide street and the architecture was amazing. I took this picture of La Rambla/Las Ramblas the next morning. 

 

We stopped at one of the kiosks to buy a map and then walked through the streets until we eventually arrived at a bar she liked. Believe it or not, we only ordered water. We took out the map and she made some recommendations about places to go and how to get there to fill tomorrow's agenda. By the time I got back to the flat and into bed, it was after 2 a.m.

Day 2

Before I get started describing my second day, I want to share a simple observation I made this bright, warm and sunny morning. It is definitely spring break and there are tourists everywhere. We stick out like a sore thumb - backpacks, maps in hand and cameras at the ready. I had forgotten just how busy these large European cities can be. I don't think I would like to be a local at the height of the tourist season. Enough said - onto day 2....

One of Gemma's suggestions was to visit the market La Boqueria just off of La Rambla.

The market was crowded, mostly with tourists. I was fascinated by the number of stalls, the choices and the presentation. Here are pictures of just a few of the stalls.

Gelato

The gambas or prawns were huge!

Spices and other condiments

Nuts and dried fruits galore

The confectionary below was a work of art. 

After the market, I passed through Placa de Sant Jaume, a large square with two major buildings including City Hall seen here and the Council Palace. 

My second stop was the Museo Picasso. The building itself was incredible, but unfortunately they didn't allow cameras in the building. All I have to show for my visit is the sign on the exterior wall, but I do have a couple of stories.

Three quarters of the way through my visit something rather unusual happened.The lights went out making it impossible to move about and see the paintings. In addition the museum staff ordered the patrons out of all the rooms into the hallways. Perhaps they thought we were going to steal something, but I think it was just protocol. Anyway, after 20 minutes or so, we were told that it was not an isolated problem within the museum, rather a city outage. After another 10 minutes, we were asked to leave the building but were told we could return the next day to finish our tour. Just as I had opened up my locker to retrieve my camera and other personal belongings, the lights went back on and we were allowed to finish our visit. That was better for me because I knew would not have time to return the next day. I must tell you that the collection of Picasso's 4,249 works was pretty impressive. It was most interesting to see his early pieces which looked quite traditional and then observe the transition towards his best known contemporary style. 

Nearby, was the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. There was an entrance fee, which I quickly found out is required at most of the sites in this city. Time was an issue too, as Gemma was on her way to meet me for lunch. I decided not to go into the church, although I did peek through the doors. If you have been following my blog, you will know that I have visited many churches along the way so I didn't feel "too hard done by".

A view to the right from the front of the basilica.

Before I knew it, my trustworthy companion Gemma arrived on her moto. By this time, it was mid afternoon and we were both pretty hungry. At a nearby restaurant, we gnoshed on a variety of tapas including artichoke shavings, green beans with walnuts, gambas, grilled bread with tomatoes etc. Our tapas were accompanied by a wonderful glass of Rioja. 

As we passed by the store (below), Gemma insisted on going in and buying a cone of chopped Bellota ham. Bellota ham is made from free range pigs that wander in the dehesas or native oak forests and feed on acorns. It is also very expensive.

We continued to walk past the Cathedral of Barcelona (Avinguda de la Catedral). Once again, there was an entrance fee so we did not go in. Gemma was most incensed that many of the churches are now charging entry fees. She said that it is a recent phenomenon likely relating to the severe recession. 

Below is the neogothic style bridge over Bishop's street called the Carrer del Bisbe Irurita.

From there, we entered into the Placa de Sant Felip Neri where there are remnants (note the holes in the walls) from the Spanish Civil War (1936-39).

Gemma then took me to one of the most unusual and fascinating stores that I have ever been in called La Basilica Galeria. I really don't know how to describe it. There were cases of the most unconventional, bizarre and expensive jewellry along the walls, odd mannequins, purses, prints, perfumes etc. I have really never seen anything like it.

The pictures don't do it justice but there were earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets of every fairy tale character from Little Red Riding Hood to Pinocchio. There were other cases filled with jewellry made with feathers and coral and other assorted items.

The earrings of bags of oranges and baskets of grapes caught my eye. 

By the time we left the gothic district, the sun was beginning to set. Gemma persuaded me to hop onto the back of her scooter to ride to the Sagrada Familia. What a great way to see parts of the city unencumbered by car windows. However, you can't be fainthearted because Gemma, like the rest of the folks on motos, weave in and out of traffic at warp speeds. 

La Sagrada Familia is a huge Roman Catholic Basilica designed by the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi. Its construction began in 1852 and its anticipated completion date is 2026, hence the cranes and the scaffolding in the following pictures.

Despite our quick trip there, the guards said we were too late to go in for a tour. So we settled for a cup of coffee on the terrace across the street from the basilica. I think it suited us both well. While I gazed at the basilica, my thoughts were that it was really "was over the top". Gaudi died from a tram accident in 1926 and the plans for the basilica were never completed. Subsequently, other architects have taken up the challenge to complete the building. To my uneducated eye, it looked incongruent as if put together piecemeal. 

Our last stop for the night was Gemma's lovely flat in the hip and energetic district of Barcelona called Gracia. We ended the day there eating the Bellota ham which was very good along with some wine and cheese before she took me back to the apartment via the scooter. Lo que es un gran dia! (What a great day!)

Gemma and her dog Mario 

Another blog entry will follow in the next day or two, so stay posted.

Aigues-Mortes

The Camargue is a region located south of Arles between the Mediterranean Sea and the two arms of the Rhone River delta. It is comprised of lakes, saltbeds and marshland and the central area is a provincial park which protects its wetland environment and natural wildlife. The rose or pink flamingoes are the most representative birds of the Camargue. Unfortunately, although I've seen many of them on my travels, I haven't been able to capture them on film. In addition, this area is also famous for the Camargue horses and bulls. Yesterday, my travels took me to Aigues-Mortes, a medieval fortress town on the western edge of the Camargue that was founded in 1240 by Louis IX, who later became St. Louis. 

On week-end days, there is one bus that leaves late morning from Montpellier to Aigues-Mortes for a grand total of 1€60. It takes about an hour and you meander through a number of towns on the way including Grande Motte which I have written about previously. En route, I snapped a picture of the salt marshes or Salins du Midi through the window. There are tours offered throughout the tourist season which describe the salination process, but they don't begin again until mid-April. The marshlands have a real rosy glow (not evident in this photo) and the salt piles resemble mountains of snow.

From the highway, Aigues-Mortes looks quite formidable with its ramparts and towers surrounding the old city. Once off the bus, I walked toward La Porte de la Gardette (seen below) which is the main entrance to the town.

The Grand'Rue, on the other side of the gate, is a cobblestone street lined with shops, cafés and restaurants ending at the main square, Place St. Louis. Just before the square, I spotted l'Église Notre-Dame-des-Sablons to my left.

The most interesting features of this church were the modern stained glass windows (circa 1960) which were very different than anything I've seen before.

According to one of the posters in the church, the colours in the windows are symbolic of a variety of attributes.

By this time, it was after one and I was getting pretty hungry. My acquaintance Martine had recommended a restaurant called Le Dit Vin (clever name I thought). I found it on a petit street off Grand'Rue. It was packed with local residents which I reckon is always a good sign. 

I ordered a house red and the table appetizer was a fish spread with petit toasts - very tasty. I also liked the bread basket which was a cloth bag seen in the background.

The plat de jour was a chicken dish with carmelized onions and pasta. I enjoyed every mouthful.

Once replete, I headed to the entrance to the ramparts.You enter beside the La Tour de Constance (below) which was completed in 1248. Initially it served as a watch tower and lighthouse to protect the town and port, but subsequently became a prison, most notably for the Huguenot women who refused to renounce their faith. The last of the Huguenots left the prison in 1768. It is an impressive structure 22m in diameter and 40m high with 6 m thick walls. 

Curved, beautiful ceilings in rooms within the Tour de Constance.

The ramparts stretch for 1650m around the old city and along the way, there are many towers you can climb to access beautiful panoramic views of the city and countryside. 

A vignoble to the south-east.

The view of the canal and city to the north.

The Salins du Midi to the south.

As I walked along the ramparts, I stopped to take photos of some of the rooftops. Here you can see the clock and the top of L'Eglise Notre-Dame-des-Sablons.

From the ramparts, you can also see houses below, their terraces and flowers. I thought this house with its painted shutters, window boxes and flower pots was very charming.

I took a picture of this balcony because of the lemon tree. We have them in Edmonton as well, but we don't have lemons at the beginning of March!

I can't imagine living in one of the houses closest to the ramparts. Tourists could see right inside your home and from what I hear, this is a very popular tourist destination. There would be a non-stop parade of people checking out what you are having for dinner.

After my tour of the ramparts, I returned to the main square, the Place St. Louis. The statue of St Louis is in the centre of the square and people sit enjoying a beverage or a meal outdoors.

This isn't a great picture, but I was rushing at the end of the afternoon. It is the Chapelle des Capucins built in the 17h century. It has been converted into an art space and the exposition I attended was a retrospective by a gent named Jean-Charles Lallement 1914-1970. There were posters of his works which for the most part were massive sculptures that now reside in different cities around France.

Last, but not least, is a picture of la Chapelle des pénitents gris. It really was much more captivating in the late afternoon light than is depicted in the photo. Unfortunately, it was not open for me to take a look inside. Besides which, I realized I had run out of time and had to make a mad dash back to the bus terminal in order to catch the one and only bus home to Montpellier. 

As the bus turned the corner to leave Aigues-Mortes, I caught a glimse of a spectacular view of La Tour Constance, the ramparts and the canal. I wish I was able to capture it on film, but it was not meant to be. Another enjoyable adventure! 

I know what's coming next, but you will have to wait. Talk to you soon.

Riding the tram in Montpellier

As you know, I take the tram almost everyday. It is a very convenient way for me to get around this city. It also provides me with some interesting observations that are at times amusing and at others, quite annoying. My first comment belongs to the latter. Recently a girl entered the tram smoking a cigarette and proceeded to finish it directly in front of me. My initial thought was that she was smoking when the tram arrived and just forgot to put out her cigarette before she got on. However, when we arrived at the next station and the doors opened, she didn't throw it out as I had anticipated. She just kept on smoking until the cigarette was finished. By the way, smoking is strictly prohibited on public transportation, but obviously not in this case. Several times, people have entered the tram with beer in hand. One older, grizzled man was a little more discreet and carried his wine in a plastic water bottle covered by a grocery bag. Every once in while, he would take it out, have a swig and then tuck it away again. In case you are wondering, drinking alcohol on public transport is also forbidden. Occasionally I wonder if some of the conductors are frustrated Formula 1 driver "wannabes". I've almost experienced whiplash taking some of the corners or coming to a halt at the tram stops. And everything comes onto the tram - bicycles, skateboards, animals, laundry, suitcases, screaming babies and children in prams. When I think about it, my experiences here are not all that different than when I have used public transportation at home in Edmonton or in other places we have travelled to. Despite it all, the tramway in Montpellier is a pretty efficient mode of transport and I am forever grateful that it exists. 

My tram -  Ligne Numéro 3

Une journée agréable

Unfortunately, I took a tumble last night. I got out of bed to turn off the radiator, but neglected to turn on the light. I think I caught my foot in the strap of my knapsack and crashed to the floor. I'm quite alright except for a pulled muscle in my back which is giving me grief. I'm finding it difficult to move about so my planned trip to Aigues-Mortes today has been postponed until next week. By then I hope to be up and running again. What a shame because it is a glorious day today with sunny skies and mild temperatures. 

Up until my fall, I had had a great day. My friend Maria, invited me to join her for a reading at one of the local bookshops. For 3 days, L'association Coeur de Livres is hosting Escapades en librairies. Les librairies are independent bookstores and different events are being held at various stores across the city centre. I think the intent is to educate, inform and invite the public to see what these bookshops have to offer. The event Maria and I attended was held outdoors in front of Librairie Souffle D'Esprit. The comedien Tom Torel read passages from La Sagesse d'un pauvre d'Eloi Leclerc which paid hommage to Saint-Francois d'Assises. He was supported by a sound man who also provided musical interludes. As usual, I had difficulty following although he spoke clearly and not too quickly. I was distracted by people walking by, noise from motos and the weather was less than stellar - I was cold because it was cloudy and the wind was blowing. However, Maria understood the gist of the reading and explained it to me afterwards. Once again, I was surprised by the number of people who were in the audience on a Friday afternoon and were willing to stay and listen despite the cool weather.

Tom Torel reading from La Sagesse d'un pauvre d'Eloi Leclerc

During my morning tram rides, I pick up the local daily papers and read some of the articles of interest. One caught my eye and it was about a retrospective "It's Not Only Rock and Roll" with photos by Linda McCartney. After the bookshop reading, Maria and I headed over to Le Pavillon Populaire to take in the exposition. 

Maria in front of La Pavillon Populaire

The exposition was very well done with pictures of famous rock stars from the 60's such as Janis Joplin, Jim Morrison, BB King, Jimmy Hendrix and of course the Beatles, Rolling Stones, Grateful Dead etc. There were also many family photos of Paul, Linda, their children and their animals. The retrospective included an interesting video of her history as a photographer and her marriage to Paul. Some of the photos were familiar as I had been to an exposition of hers a few years back when I was visiting in Winnipeg. However, I really enjoyed this exposition too.

According to the article in the local paper, Paul McCartney and his daughter Mary made a surprise visit to Montpellier on opening night. Sure enough, I found their autographs in the guest book that we also signed and took a picture. I just wish I had been there.

Afterwards, we wandered over to the Shakespeare pub where we had agreed to meet some of the other students for a beer. That was followed by dinner at La Poule au Pot which is a beautiful wine bar/restaurant steps away from Place Jean-Juarès. It had lovely arched ceilings from the 12th century and a great wine cellar. We all ordered different meals and everyone agreed the food was excellent. I think it was one of the best meals I've had here and will definitely return. Service and prices were also good. 

James (England), Ella (Germany), Maria (Finland) and Lexa (United States)

My dinner - le loup. Cooked perfectly and it was delicious!

Last stop of the evening was the Fitzpatrick's pub that was televising the rugby match between Wales and France. The place was absolutely packed. James thought we should hear the French sing the national anthem La Marseillaise. People in the pub eagerly joined in chorus with the crowd on the TV. I wasn't particularly interested in staying for the game, so after the anthem, I bowed out and took the tram home. The rest remained and Maria sent me an email saying that Wales beat France 26-6. Apparently James was pretty happy with the result, but I doubt there were many others in the pub that shared his sentiments. 

Until next time....