L'Espagne

L'Espagne - this is where I have spent the last few days. Given the number pictures and stories I have to share, I will be writing this blog in stages over the next week.  

Day 1 (actually Thursday evening)

The very first student I met and befriended at my language school was Gemma. She lives and works in Barcelona, but had decided to brush up on her French for a few weeks in the fall. At that time, we had talked about getting together for a subsequent visit before I left. With only two weeks of school remaining we decided if we were going to make it happen, it was this week-end or not at all. Being the rebel that I am, I even took a day off school to spend a longer weekend with her in Spain. The direct train from Montpellier to Barcelona takes about 3 hours and I arrived there just before 9 p.m. Gemma met me at the station and together we took a taxi to "my place". Gemma owns and manages a few apartments in the city and she kindly booked a small, but well appointed studio apartment for me to use. Once we arrived at "my place" we enjoyed a glass of wine, some baguette and cheese (which I had brought with me from France) while we caught up on one another's news. At about 11:30, she suggested we go out to buy a map and then maybe find a nice bar to have another glass of wine. Even though I was pretty tired, I thought I'll only be able to take advantage of this opportunity once, so go for it. We walked to La Rambla or Las Ramblas (I have seen it written both ways) which is a major street in central Barcelona that is very popular with tourists and locals alike. Despite the late hour, it was just bustling. People were everywhere, kiosks were open and cafes and bars were filled with patrons. It is a beautiful wide street and the architecture was amazing. I took this picture of La Rambla/Las Ramblas the next morning. 

 

We stopped at one of the kiosks to buy a map and then walked through the streets until we eventually arrived at a bar she liked. Believe it or not, we only ordered water. We took out the map and she made some recommendations about places to go and how to get there to fill tomorrow's agenda. By the time I got back to the flat and into bed, it was after 2 a.m.

Day 2

Before I get started describing my second day, I want to share a simple observation I made this bright, warm and sunny morning. It is definitely spring break and there are tourists everywhere. We stick out like a sore thumb - backpacks, maps in hand and cameras at the ready. I had forgotten just how busy these large European cities can be. I don't think I would like to be a local at the height of the tourist season. Enough said - onto day 2....

One of Gemma's suggestions was to visit the market La Boqueria just off of La Rambla.

The market was crowded, mostly with tourists. I was fascinated by the number of stalls, the choices and the presentation. Here are pictures of just a few of the stalls.

Gelato

The gambas or prawns were huge!

Spices and other condiments

Nuts and dried fruits galore

The confectionary below was a work of art. 

After the market, I passed through Placa de Sant Jaume, a large square with two major buildings including City Hall seen here and the Council Palace. 

My second stop was the Museo Picasso. The building itself was incredible, but unfortunately they didn't allow cameras in the building. All I have to show for my visit is the sign on the exterior wall, but I do have a couple of stories.

Three quarters of the way through my visit something rather unusual happened.The lights went out making it impossible to move about and see the paintings. In addition the museum staff ordered the patrons out of all the rooms into the hallways. Perhaps they thought we were going to steal something, but I think it was just protocol. Anyway, after 20 minutes or so, we were told that it was not an isolated problem within the museum, rather a city outage. After another 10 minutes, we were asked to leave the building but were told we could return the next day to finish our tour. Just as I had opened up my locker to retrieve my camera and other personal belongings, the lights went back on and we were allowed to finish our visit. That was better for me because I knew would not have time to return the next day. I must tell you that the collection of Picasso's 4,249 works was pretty impressive. It was most interesting to see his early pieces which looked quite traditional and then observe the transition towards his best known contemporary style. 

Nearby, was the Basilica de Santa Maria del Mar. There was an entrance fee, which I quickly found out is required at most of the sites in this city. Time was an issue too, as Gemma was on her way to meet me for lunch. I decided not to go into the church, although I did peek through the doors. If you have been following my blog, you will know that I have visited many churches along the way so I didn't feel "too hard done by".

A view to the right from the front of the basilica.

Before I knew it, my trustworthy companion Gemma arrived on her moto. By this time, it was mid afternoon and we were both pretty hungry. At a nearby restaurant, we gnoshed on a variety of tapas including artichoke shavings, green beans with walnuts, gambas, grilled bread with tomatoes etc. Our tapas were accompanied by a wonderful glass of Rioja. 

As we passed by the store (below), Gemma insisted on going in and buying a cone of chopped Bellota ham. Bellota ham is made from free range pigs that wander in the dehesas or native oak forests and feed on acorns. It is also very expensive.

We continued to walk past the Cathedral of Barcelona (Avinguda de la Catedral). Once again, there was an entrance fee so we did not go in. Gemma was most incensed that many of the churches are now charging entry fees. She said that it is a recent phenomenon likely relating to the severe recession. 

Below is the neogothic style bridge over Bishop's street called the Carrer del Bisbe Irurita.

From there, we entered into the Placa de Sant Felip Neri where there are remnants (note the holes in the walls) from the Spanish Civil War (1936-39).

Gemma then took me to one of the most unusual and fascinating stores that I have ever been in called La Basilica Galeria. I really don't know how to describe it. There were cases of the most unconventional, bizarre and expensive jewellry along the walls, odd mannequins, purses, prints, perfumes etc. I have really never seen anything like it.

The pictures don't do it justice but there were earrings, necklaces, rings and bracelets of every fairy tale character from Little Red Riding Hood to Pinocchio. There were other cases filled with jewellry made with feathers and coral and other assorted items.

The earrings of bags of oranges and baskets of grapes caught my eye. 

By the time we left the gothic district, the sun was beginning to set. Gemma persuaded me to hop onto the back of her scooter to ride to the Sagrada Familia. What a great way to see parts of the city unencumbered by car windows. However, you can't be fainthearted because Gemma, like the rest of the folks on motos, weave in and out of traffic at warp speeds. 

La Sagrada Familia is a huge Roman Catholic Basilica designed by the famous Catalan architect Antoni Gaudi. Its construction began in 1852 and its anticipated completion date is 2026, hence the cranes and the scaffolding in the following pictures.

Despite our quick trip there, the guards said we were too late to go in for a tour. So we settled for a cup of coffee on the terrace across the street from the basilica. I think it suited us both well. While I gazed at the basilica, my thoughts were that it was really "was over the top". Gaudi died from a tram accident in 1926 and the plans for the basilica were never completed. Subsequently, other architects have taken up the challenge to complete the building. To my uneducated eye, it looked incongruent as if put together piecemeal. 

Our last stop for the night was Gemma's lovely flat in the hip and energetic district of Barcelona called Gracia. We ended the day there eating the Bellota ham which was very good along with some wine and cheese before she took me back to the apartment via the scooter. Lo que es un gran dia! (What a great day!)

Gemma and her dog Mario 

Another blog entry will follow in the next day or two, so stay posted.