La Grande Motte revisited

Yesterday was an absolutely glorious day! The sun was shining and it was definitely T-shirt weather. I was going to knuckle under and study, but then Patricia invited me to join her and her cousin Carol for a walk along the boardwalk at La Grande Motte. It was an offer I couldn't refuse. La Grande Motte is so pretty, the weather was perfect and the company superb. It was probably the best way for me to study anyway. Comprehension and pronunciation are two areas that I really need to work on and an outing with the two of them was a great way to practice both. Patricia and Carol are very patient and often stop to ask if I understand what they are saying. If I say no or un peu (a little) which happens often, they will slow down, repeat a sentence or try to explain the concept in another way. I also had the chance to talk en français, albeit badly.

We had a wonderful afternoon sauntering along the boardwalk, checking out the boats, sitting by the sea and watching the waves. Believe it or not, there were some kids swimming and playing in the water and it is the end of October - they are definitely braver souls than me. To top it off, we stopped for a coffee and bite to eat at an outdoor café. Here are a few pictures:

Patricia is on the left and Carol is on the right. You can see some of the kids in the water in the background.

My two companions - Carol (L) and Patricia (R)

Guess who?

My best friend....

The Internet was out for a couple of days here and I realized how dependent I have become on my iPad and the Internet. Without it, I felt quite lost. It is my connection to you - family, friends and all things familiar. Thank goodness, it is up and running again this morning. I really don't know how I would cope otherwise! It has become my best friend on this journey.

In my last blog, I mentioned that we were going out Friday for dinner to watch Pierre play the flamenco guitar. We went to a family restaurant with a set menu of 3 choices for the entrée (appetizer or starter) 3 choices for le plat du jour (main course) and 3 choices for dessert. Dinner was excellent, but the entrée, the terrine de chèvre avec des échalotes grillées, was outstanding. As you can see, I couldn't wait to try it and had already taken a bite out of it before I took the picture...oh so good!

The musical entertainment was also exceptional. Apparently, there are 8 people in the group called Cocktail  Flamenco, who sing and play a variety of instruments. As I understand it, the large group plays in venues of size, particularly in open air environments in the summer. At this small restaurant, there were only two of them (to start with) Pierre and the lead singer Mehdi. Watching Pierre play the guitar was a sight to behold. He is very skilled. Mehdi sang beautifully and Pierre sang harmony. As the night progressed, friends of the group arrived and in no time, there were others playing the guitar and singing along. It was most enjoyable to listen to and to watch not only because the music was good, but it was obvious that the boys were having so much fun as well. Patricia said that if there was an opportunity to see the large group, before I leave, that we would go. I'd love that.

Although I took many pictures, most of them didn't turn out well. Medhi is on the left and Pierre is on the right. In every picture, their hands were blurry because they moved so quickly.

Pierre and friends...

Yesterday, I decided to take the day off from studying and spent the afternoon strolling through another district of Montpellier. I took the tram to the Place d'Europe and then walked along the boardwalk on the banks of the Lez river. Perhaps this won't be interesting to you, but it was to me. I watched a group of ducks for quite awhile. Along this river, there are several little dams or steps. The ducks would swim toward the rushing water then the first one would get out and walk upward along the bank to reach the next level and then jump in and swim off. The others did exactly the same thing and followed behind. Then another group came along. This time, the lead duck flew from the lower level up to the next and sure enough the others followed. It was fun to watch.

The Boardwalk along the Lez River

I eventually came upon the district of Jacques Cœur which is obviously quite new. There were some  interesting buildings and shops including a very cool Italian design store called RBC. The kitchen chairs were around 1000 euros (about $1040.00) so needless to say everything was out of my "snack bracket" but it was still fun to noodle around on the 5 floors of the store.

A couple of other cool buildings.

Last but not least, I couldn't resist taking pictures of some of the flowers that are still vibrant at this time of year.

Before I sign off, I have to tell you that my pancakes were a big hit this morning. I had to hope and pray that the different ingredients and measurements would work. Patricia really enjoyed them - she said she liked them more than crepes. The maple syrup was wonderful too. After breakfast, she insisted on getting the recipe so that she could make them for others, particularly her grandchildren.

We are off to Grande Motte this afternoon for a walk along the port. The sun is shining, so we'll take advantage of the nice weather.

Saint Denis

Today, I finished my sixth week at ILA. On Monday, I will have a new professeur and many new classmates. Several people I became friends with this week are leaving -  Sabine, the doctor from Germany, Caroline, the lovely girl from Sweden who is going to Paris to see if she can find employment and my fellow Canadian Jane who is taking a European holiday before returning to Canada. I will miss them all, but hopefully there will be other opportunities to see them in the future. Our prof Clara has also finished her temporary contract and will be leaving for an indeterminate period of time. She was very good! Who knows what Monday will bring.

After class today, I decided to wander in a district just beyond the school. I pass by Saint Denis every day on the tram. There is this wonderful looking boulangerie that I have admired from the window in passing. Today, I went there to buy lunch. I resisted the scrumptious looking pastries, but of course I had to take a few pictures.

The French really do know how to make bread. One of my goals while I'm here, is to learn how to make a good baguette. I'm not sure whether that is possible, because everyone buys their bread from the numerous boulangeries. 

After my bite to eat, I wandered a bit further. It was a little windy today and overcast, but still warm enough. I was just wearing a long sleeved sweatshirt. I noticed that some of the terasses were covered with tents with clear plastic sides to protect the patrons from the elements. My guess is, people here are able eat outside all year.

Around the corner, there was an interesting church and a building beside it with colorful religious murals.

I also stopped at a grocery store to buy a few provisions for breakfast. This week-end, I hope to make pancakes for Patricia. I brought her maple syrup from Canada, so I'd like her to try it. French products, including things like flour and baking powder are quite different than what I know and so are their measurements. I have no idea how they will turn out, but I'm willing to give it a go.

Tonight, Patricia, a couple of friends and I are going to a restaurant for dinner. Her son Pierre, who plays flamenco guitar, and his group are the musical entertainment. 

Hope you have a good week-end too!

Feelings

A couple of people, including my wise husband and good friend Richard, warned me that I would likely experience a wide range of emotions on this journey. They both talked about the highs and lows, the feelings of loneliness, the desire to speak English etc. I agreed with them and although I was intellectually aware, the experience itself has been quite profound. It is really not something you can prepare for or even avoid... at least, that's been my experience.

As I've mentioned before, I was very excited and nervous when I first arrived. I was elated that I could even make it from one end of Paris to the other to catch the right train on time. Small victories were and continue to be important. Fortunately, my host Patricia, has been a godsend and she has been very patient. However, I find myself getting extremely frustrated when I can't understand what she is saying to me or when I can't find the words to express an idea or a thought to her (or anyone else for that matter). What's even worse, is when I use the wrong word or verb tense when it is something I do know and then I get really mad at myself. Another frustration is my inability to hear - words in French often sound the same to me so I can't make out the context. Sometimes I just wish that I could have a meaningful conversation with someone in French, but I just don't have what it takes yet, to have anything more than a simple short conversation.

I feel quite isolated at times too. Although I might be with a group of people, I don't understand what they are saying and I can't participate in the discussion.  My age is also a bit isolating, at the school anyway. Most of the students are very young with different interests than me. Trying to acquire another language requires an inordinate amount of concentration. One has to listen attentively to every word spoken in class and out to try and grasp the meaning. It takes a lot of energy and I find that I'm really tired by the end of a day. 

Everything came to a head at the end of last week. I was feeling very low thinking that maybe, just maybe, I will never be able to learn this language regardless of how hard I work or how long I stay here. When you start to doubt your own capacity, you can get pretty discouraged. Then, after whinging to my family and good friends, I found myself coming out of this "blue funk". They sent me examples of similar stories, positive affirmations, funny videos and emails and words of encouragement.  I can't tell you how much that buoyed my spirits. Thank you! With all your support, I decided that this week was going to be a good one and that I would stop beating myself up. I can only do my best. To paraphrase a quote, from Thumper I believe, "If I don't succeed this time, I can try, try again".  Who knows, I might be here again same time next year! 

Advance Warning: When I return to Edmonton for a visit at Christmas, I may not be able to speak or understand this language much better than when I left. You might consider lowering any expectations.

Pictures I forgot to post yesterday ...

Oops, I meant to post these pictures yesterday and forgot. My camera battery had died the day I was in Antigone and first wrote the post (see Oct 2)  but I recently went back. Here are a few of the scenes en route from the Lez river towards the old city. Pretty, isn't it?

This one is a picture of a beautiful old building across from the Palais du Justice just before you reach the L'Arc de Triomphe.

That's all for now folks, but I'll be back soon.

A few more Things I have done and Places I have seen in Montpellier

Generally, life has fallen into a comfortable rhythm here. I get up around 7:15 and head to school on the tram about 8:15. School begins at 9:00 and ends at 12:30. After school, I usually have  lunch with fellow students. There are so many restaurants and cafés within close proximity to the school that we have never been to the same place twice and this is the end of my fifth week. After lunch, I might go exploring (more about that in a minute), run errands, shop or head home to do my homework and study. Dinner is usually somewhere between 7:15 and 8:15 and it takes us a good hour to eat and chat. Domestic chores like the dishes or ironing follow and by then, it is time to think about getting ready for bed. I spend an inordinate amount of time in my bedroom. This where I keep my iPad so that I can call people using FaceTime or Skype, work on my blog, respond to emails and of course work on my French. Keith told me about an app called Duolingo that I downloaded and have been using regularly. I also purchased a couple of grammar books with exercises that one of my profs recommended. Regardless, I don't feel at all confident about my ability to acquire this language despite my efforts. Enough whinging! 

Back in my blog from Sept 24, I told you about the Jardin des Plantes. It had been closed that day, but I recently went back on a lovely afternoon. It was very peaceful and pretty. As I wandered through the gardens, I came across a prof giving a lecture to a group of students. What a great spot to have a class!

I also noticed, as I have in many places in France and in Europe, that people take advantage of green spaces to "just be". They sit on park benches and watch the world go by. We could learn something from them.

It's hard to believe it is October here - many plants are still in bloom.

On another afternoon, a few of us went to La Panacée which is the Montpellier Contemporary Cultural Centre. There was an exhibit of works created by artists from around the world including Canadians that explored current-day technologies in the most interesting installations. Afterwards of course, we headed to a terasse for drinks and conversation about the exhibit among other things. Here I am with my classmate and friend Bianca who lives and works in Germany.

This week, I attended another school event "Dégustation du Fromage". During the session I found out that there are more than 1400 different kinds of cheese produced in this country and that the average French person consumes about 24 kg of cheese per year. Apparently only Greece exceeds France in per capita consumption of cheese because of the feta. At any rate, I was able to try 10 different cheeses and they were all delicious - some just better than others. My favourite, as it turns out, was one I had never tried before called Etorki. Etorki is a cheese made with sheep's milk and produced in the region of Aquitaine/Pays Basque in the southwest of France. It is a firm cheese compared to many others like Brie, Camembert and Roquefort. In my opinion, the French really do know how to make wonderful cheese. The only problem is, there are so many kinds to buy and try.

Today was Enio's last day. He kindly took me out for lunch and then I helped him take his bags to the train station. It was an emotional good-bye for both of us. He left for Paris to visit with friends and then hopes to leave for Chicago, his hometown, tomorrow. I will miss his company very much, but know that we will stay in touch. Another lesson learned here is that people come and go - Gemma, Martina, Bianca and now Enio. No doubt, there will be many others by the time I leave next March. Even the profs don't stay for very long. In five weeks, I have had 3 different profs and I was told today that Clara (my prof now) finishes her contract at the end of next week. It really forces you to be flexible and reach out to new people. As a matter of fact, another student, Jan, invited me to join her for lunch on Sunday. Like me, she is from Canada and seems to be about the same vintage. She speaks and understands French better than me, but I found out today, she has studied in a french school in Bordeaux and another one in Nice before coming to ILA in Montpellier. Maybe there's hope or me yet.

The Good, the Bad and the Ugly

To date, I have described with words and pictures mostly good things in this part of the world and deservedly so. However, as my husband Keith often says, there is no perfect place and southern France, including Montpellier, is no exception. The beautiful bits are exquisite. Just at noon today, my friend and I went out for lunch and sat at a lovely café overlooking the Le Lez river. The sun was shining and the surroundings were most agréable . As we walked back to the tram, we passed a number of beautiful fountains, green spaces and cafés. 

"The Good"

On the way back, I stopped at La Gare St. Roch to get my train tickets for a number of trips that I'll be taking in November. This is where "the bad" comes in. There are a number of odours that are most unpleasant. I told you the story previously that folks don't pick up after their dogs and there is excrement all over the walks. You really do have to watch. I'm not the least bit interested in stepping in it with my left shoe for good luck. There is also a strong odour of urine in many places. According to Patricia, many people "faire de pee-pee" in the streets. On the trams and other public transports, many smells waft in the air and they aren't always Chanel No.5! There seems to be a blatant disegard for garbage cans. Many times I have watched people throwing refuse on to the streets when there's been a garbage can within reach. I know that I would walk for miles with either garbage in my pockets or even a bag of "dog poop" before I would ever think of throwing it on the ground. This is indeed one of the ways we are quite different. Streets here are strewn with cigarette butts, garbage, dog excrement and "spit". The municipal cleaners really have their work cut out for them every morning as they sweep up the garbage and wash down the streets. 

Last, but not least, there is "the ugly". Just before you pull into the Celleneuve tram station, there is this huge expanse of garbage with a shanty town behind it. I finally asked Patricia what it was and she said it was a Roma camp. This is basically an urban ghetto for the Romas, also known as gypsies. Romas originated in northern India and over time migrated to Europe. Because of their dark skin and cloistered culture, they have not assimilated well. They are also subject to racist comments and depictions of a people with a tendency toward crime and drug use. Like the First Nations people in our country, they struggle with housing, employment, education and dignity. Apparently in 2010, France was widely criticized for deporting thousands of Romas back to Bulgaria, Romania and Hungary. Regardless, of what you might think of Romas, conditions are deplorable. 

The garbage...

The Roma camp

Beautiful scenery, buildings, great food, good and bad smells, garbage, graffiti and urban ghettoes are just some of the things that make up this interesting and vibrant city and I thought it was important to present a more balanced picture of where I am living. Until next time....

Language Aquisition as a Senior Student

It's official! I just found out today that I am presently the oldest student in the school. Most of my classmates are in their late teens (some as young as 16 yrs) or early 20's. There are a few students in their 30's, 40's or 50's and we have managed to find each other. As we share stories, I have heard about young students who either don't come to class very often, sleep through the class, text or talk in their native language throughout and come to class ill prepared. Regardless, these young people have youth on their side and somehow through osmosis, they are often able to respond appropriately when asked a question in class. I, on the other hand, and this won't be a surprise to those of you that know me well, come to every class and arrive early. I study everyday, complete all my homework assignments and converse as well as I can with my host. Regardless, I struggle with comprehension, grammar and vocabulary. Even though I may learn a new word or phrase in the morning, I might forget it by the afternoon. This is without a doubt, one of the hardest things I have ever done. It is even more difficult than I thought and I often wonder if it will even be possible for me to acquire some level of fluency and comprehension.

On Monday, I will be moving up to the next level known as B1. My prof assures me that I will do well, but I am not so sure. My friend Enio is in B1 and he comprehends 90% of what is being said in French. I have heard from him and others who speak languages like Spanish, Portugese or Italian, that mastering French is much easier because the root words are Latin based. For this old English gal, I'm lucky if I make out the odd word, phrase or concept. That said, I think it is important for me to move forward. If I find that it really is too difficult for me, I was assured that I can ask to move back.

This experience has been an exercise in patience and perseverance. I have to remind myself that I have been here less than 4 weeks and that I am no longer 20. I must remember to celebrate the small successes like the times when the waiter actually understands my food order in French and does not reply in English. 

To end this post, I have to tell you that the French language is as beautiful as I remember. When native French people speak, it has an almost musical quality and they are generally very quiet spoken. This is in direct contrast to some other counties I have visited where the oral language is loud and harsh to my ears. I look forward to the day when I can participate in a meaningful conversation en français.

Les salades françaises

Since I arrived, I have enjoyed salads every day and sometimes twice a day. Patricia makes exceptional salads and I am always surprised by the combinations. The main ingredient is lettuce, but she uses a variety of greens. To that, she adds vegetables like cucumber, tomatoes, onions, beets and carrots. We might have sunflower seeds, walnuts or pine nuts. Sometimes there are eggs or chicken or smoked salmon or proscuitto. We've had chick peas, tuna and ham too. Often, there will be cheese like roquefort, chèvre or emmental. In my books, all types of French cheese are outstanding. Occasionally, I'll find fruit like pears,apples,raisins or even a soupçon of fig confiture. The combinations are endless. Her secret ingredient, although I know what it is called, is Gerblé, Levure Diététique. From what I can gather, it is a powdered malt rich in vitamins, minerals and protein that she adds just before the dressing, which she calls "sauce". All the ingredients are then gently mixed with her homemade "sauce" of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, mustard and honey. Of course, every salad is accompanied by a delicious baguette. Bon appétit!

Unfortunately, I don't have a picture of one of Patricia's salads, but as I said, I may have more than one in a day. This is a picture of the salad I had at a local restaurant for lunch the other day. Needless to say, I enjoyed a glass of French red with it. Délicieuse!

"Sur le pont d'Avignon"

Avignon-what a pretty place! The day before we left, it poured along with thunder and lightning. We were worried that sightseeing in Avignon would be less than stellar, but we were pleasantly surprised to wake up to sunny skies and a warm 23 degrees. The train trip was uneventful and when we arrived we found that our hotel was literally right beside the train station. Not only was it convenient, clean and comfortable, but very quiet too. Once we checked in, we headed toward the ramparts which encircle the city. These ramparts are a fine example of medieval fortification.

My friend Enio in front of the ramparts of Avignon.

We walked down Main Street, la Rue de la République, that was dotted with shops, bars, cafés and restaurants to the Place du Palais. Our first stop was the Pont d'Avignon/ Pont Saint-Bénézet projecting into the Rhone river. Legend has it that a local shepherd named Bénézet was inspired by angels to build the bridge. He hurled a huge stone into the river which became the bridge's foundation. This act convinced others of the divine intervention and the bridge was quickly built. Bénézet was subsequently canonized and his chapel remains on the bridge. Only 4 of the original 18 or 22 arches (I have read both numbers) remain and it has been declared a world hertitage site. I taught Enio the famous song "Sur le pont, d'Avignon" and he took my picture as I danced on the bridge. 

"on l'danse, on l'y danse"

A couple of views of the Rhone from the Pont d'Avignon

As we made our way back from the bridge to the Palais des Papes, we came across a group of young students acting out a modern adaptation of Romeo and Juliet. It really was very entertaining.

There were also a number of shops selling beautiful Provence products like lavender, herbes de province and tablecloths etc. Of course, I had to stop to support the French econonmy.

Next, we went to the Palais des Papes. Avignon was the seat of the papacy in the 14th century. I believe 7 popes resided here. This mammoth palace however, is not handicap friendly. As you move from one viewing area to another, you often read signs that said "difficult stairs". I certainly had a workout viewing the 25 rooms open to the public. By the way, I made it to the top of the tower in the middle.

Beside the Palais des Papes is the Romanesque Cathedral Notre Dame des Doms built in 12th century. Its most dominant feature is the gilded statue of the Virgin Mary atop the west tower.

Here we are (Enio and me) outside Notre Dame des Doms with the Palais des Papes in the background.

Just beyond the cathedral, there was a beautiful park called the Rocher des Doms. It is hard to believe that it is October with such beautiful blooms to enjoy.

A view of the Rhone and Pont d'Avignon from the park.

Another couple of highlights included a visit to Les Halles which is a large indoor market with a living exterior wall.

Inside the market, there are food items that I have no idea how to cook and in some cases, nor would I want to. Here is a case in point.

There were several wine/beer bars and perhaps not surprisingly, many were imbibing before noon.

It was a beautiful market filled with amazing fish, vegetables, breads, meats, wine etc. What a delight!

As we were wandering through the streets, we came across this beautiful church and popped in just before the doors closed. It is Église de Saint Pierre with a Gothic facade and exquisite carved solid walnut doors. In between the doors, there is a sculpture of the Virgin Mary and her child.

One of the last places we visited was the Hôtel de Ville (Town Hall) in the Place de L'Horloge.

I think what we both loved about this city, amongst everything else that I've shown you, were the green spaces. It seemed that more attention is spent here on landscaping than in Montpellier. In addition, the streets were quaint and clean and there was large number of excellent cafés and restaurants to choose from. If you ever get a chance to come to Provence in southern France, be sure to visit Avignon!