ZAT! Boutonnet/Beaux-Arts (Une Zone Artistique Temporaire)

My lovely prof Caroline told us about this week-end event which was going to held in the quartiers of Boutennet and Les Beaux-Arts. Shortly thereafter, I read a short article about it in one of the daily rags. I didn't have anything special planned today, so I decided to take in a bit of ZAT. 

Even though I went for a few hours, I'm still not sure what it was all about. I followed a crowd of people into one venue filled with odd looking mechanical machines and men wearing blue overalls. Perhaps I didn't stay long enough because I think it was supposed to be musical theatre in the style of an industrial cabaret. Being unable to speak, understand or read the language with any real skill leaves me  at a real disadvantage. Even the program left me bewildered. However, here are a couple of pictures of the sets in the venue.

From there, I headed over to another venue. The performance was called "We Can Be Heroes".

About 30 people of all ages danced and lip-synced/synched (I'm not sure of the spelling) to songs by Eminem, MGMT, Shirley Bassey etc. They performed with such fervor that despite the cold, they worked up quite a sweat. 

It was really windy and pretty cold so I decided to make my way back to the tram. As I did so, I came across a couple of these heaters with people standing around to warm up. They are hanging metal structures filled with burning wood and seem to be very effective.

I also came across what I would call a beer garden - Bouchon des Beaux-Arts. It was too cold for me to stop and have a beer, but it certainly didn't deter the masses.

However, I did stumble upon a small wine shop en route that just happened to be offering a wine tasting. Naturally, I was curious to try a few local varieties and landed up buying a couple of bottles for the house.

I couldn't resist taking this picture of an apartment building in Beaux-Arts with flowers and vines especially after hearing from Keith that it has snowed non-stop for the last day in Edmonton. I guess I can't complain about the cooler temperatures and wind here.

Stay warm! Until next time...

Toulouse

It was dark outside when I left this morning and there were very few people on the street as I walked to the tram. Now the sun is up and shining and I am on the train heading for Toulouse. I wish I could take some pictures of the French countryside to share with you, but the train moves too quickly. You'll just have to take my word for it when I tell you the countryside is pretty darned nice. My travel companion, below, was also a delight and very well behaved. His owner was a lovely woman who lives and works in Carcassone. She and I managed to strike up a conversation in French and before I knew it, the conductor was announcing our arrival in Toulouse.

Toulouse, like Montpellier, is a university city with many students. However, it is larger than Montpellier and in my opinion much cleaner. The shops, restaurants, cafes and streets were filled with people and the energy was palpable. I started my visit, as I tend to do, at the Tourist Office in the City Centre to get a map and plan my route. Here is the fountain just behind the tourist office.

Although I had visited Toulouse briefly with Keith and Trev quite a few years ago, I couldn't remember alot about it. Before I left Montpellier, I made an itinerary to capitalize on the brief time I had here. With map in hand, I headed toward the Marché Victor Hugo. This market place was huge and bustling. It also had a few "gross" things for sale. Case in point:

Next stop, the Basilique St-Sernin. I had read about this church in several travel forums and a few blogs. Much to my surprise, there was a "vide grenier" or yard sale all around the perimeter of the church. The first person I saw and heard was this young fellow playing guitar and singing a Bob Dylan tune. Here is his picture and a few of the church. 

From there I walked to the Place du Capitole. The Capitolium was decorated with flags to honour Armistice Day, November 11.

Then, I made my way to the Couvent des Jacobins. The most remarkable feature about this church was the ceiling. Take note.

By this point I had worked up an appetite. The speciality in Toulouse is cassoulet so I wanted to find a restaurant that served this dish. There were several and eventually I settled on a quaint place tucked away on side street called the Coq Hardi.

The fabulous entrée was a warm salad made with fèves au lard (broad beans and bacon)

This was followed by the plat - cassoulet Toulousain (although very good, I did not finish it)

Dessert was Panna Cotta and it was excellent. Eat you heart out Trev! (Trevor is my brother and loves this dessert) I did finish it. 

This wonderful meal, as usual, was accompanied by a glass of tasty red wine. 

By the time I left the restaurant, the sun had disappeared and the clouds had moved in. It was cool, but pleasant. Needless to say, I had to walk off a few of those calories from lunch so I wandered up and down the pedestrian streets and in and out of some of the shops on my way to the Pont Neuf over the Garonne River. 

Pont Neuf et La Garonne

There was a beautiful vine covered wall on the other side of the bridge.

By now, you know that I can't resist taking pictures of flowers. I thought these berries were particularly appealing.

I had also read about a place that served good coffee "Saveurs Des Tropiques" (unfortunately, I cut off the shop name in the picture) so that is where I decided to stop mid afternoon. It was "just hopping" and the coffee was excellent.

As with all good things, this day too had to come to an end. Toulouse is a lovely city with lots to see and do. It is clean and the people I talked to were very kind and friendly. The city centre is filled with interesting shops and excellent restaurants, bars and cafes. Well worth a visit if you are in the neighbourhood!

Il fait chaud (It is hot)

This is just a very quick post to tell you how absolutely beautiful it is today! I just checked the Internet and the temperature is 24 degrees outside. The sky is blue and the sun is shining. As a matter of fact, I just finished dead heading some of Patricia's plants. After school today, I enjoyed a lovely lunch of pasta with a roquefort sauce and a glass of red while sitting outside on a terasse. One really couldn't ask for more  - great food, great wine and great weather. It is a good day! 

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert

Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert is a magnificent medieval village located on the Chemin de St. Jacques (St. James' Way) pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostella. It is also on the list of Les Plus Beaux Villages de France (the most beautiful villages of France) so I'm hoping my pictures will do it justice. Patricia suggested we spend the day there and I couldn't have enjoyed myself more. It was indeed une bonne journée!

Before arriving at Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert, you pass by the Pont du Diable (Devil's Bridge) overlooking the gorges of the Hérault river. In 1999, both the Pont du Diable and l'Abbaye de Gellone were designated UNESCO Worldwide Heritage sites.

 

Here I am standing on the Pont Diable which is the old bridge and you can see the new ones in the background.

Below is the gorges of the Hérault River.

There are quite a few waterfalls and rapids along the way and apparently, quite a few people kayak here.

Once we arrived at the village, we meandered up and down the tiny streets stopping to check out some of the interesting shops along the way. One of the most interesting to me was a tiny parfumerie called Sharini. The owner was a bloke from Stratford-on Avon in England who has lived in the village for the last 6 years. He makes natural perfumes from roses, lavender, geraniums, fruits etc. Patricia bought  a small bottle of Patchouli while we were tthere.

I asked him in French how long it took him to speak the language and he told me that he was still learning after 6 years. However, he studied in earnest for 2 years and in my opinion, he speaks very well. 

Here are a few pictures of l'Abbaye de Gellone from the back overlooking their garden of vegetables, vines with grapes and beautiful flowers and grasses. 

Roses in bud and bloom in the Abbaye garden on November 3.

We had made a picnic lunch so we sat on a bench on the terrasse soaking up the sun and people watching. The terrasse was built around a huge platane tree (below) that is about 155 years old and 6 metres in circumference. 

On the periphery, were shops and restaurants. We decided to join the crowd in the middle for a wee libation - coffee for Patricia and surprise, surprise - a glass of vin rouge for me. Très agréable.

After our lunch and drinks, we continued to walk up the narrow streets. The views were spectacular including ruins of an old chateau on the side of the mountain.

I find it hard to believe that flowers are still so beautiful at this time of year. My husband just sent me a picture of our garden in Edmonton covered with snow. Quelle différence!

A wee souvenir of our wonderful day! Note it's name: Pont Diable de Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. À votre santé!

Un jour à Marseille

Thanks to the generosity of my good friends in wine club, I will be taking several day trips this month to a number of cities in southern France. Today, I am en route to Marseille for the day. I was up bright and early to catch the train and it looks like it is going to be a beautiful day. I checked the weather forecast before I left and I think it is going to reach the mid-twenties. As I travel to Marseille, I am passing through villages and cities like Nimes, Arles and Avignon along the way. What surprises me are the number of palm trees that I see in southern France. I often associate palms with hot, tropical places in the Southern Hemisphere, but there are lots here too. It must be the Mediterranean climate.

Now I am on my way back to Montpellier so I guess I better fill you in on my day. Marseille is a big city - the third largest in France. Knowing I would have limited time, I did a little research on the Internet before my departure and more or less developed plan of action. I arrived at the Gare St. Charles. It is quite a lovely, but busy train station, high above the city. I think I've mentioned this before, but France really isn't very handicap friendly and once you see the stairs you need to climb to get to and leave the station, you'll see what I mean.

Gare St.Charles Marseille

Picture taken from the train station toward the city.

My first stop was the Office Tourisme (tourist office) to get a map and a few directions. Then I walked to the Vieux-Port (old port) which as you would expect was filled with boats. 

Along either side of the port were restaurants and cafés non-stop. I can't imagine what this place is like in the summer, because the boardwalk was filled with tourists like me and it's November 1. I eventually reached my destination - the ticket office for Le Petit Train to le Basilique Notre-Dame de la Garde. This small train takes you on a very scenic route up the coast and then through parts of the city to the basilica. At 162 m altitude, you have amazing panoramic views of the city. The basilica wasn't too shabby either. 

Scenes taken from the Basilique de Notre-Dame de la Garde

After I had had a chance to explore the basilica and take a few pictures of Marseille, I caught the train back down to the old port. From there, I meandered through some of the narrow streets in the Panier District. If I have a chance to come back, I'll spend a little more time in that part of the city. There are several chuches and landmarks that might be well worth investigating. For those of you that know me well, you will also know that I love Starbuck's coffee. Well, lo and behold, as I was checking out places to see and things to do in Marseille,  I came acoss two Starbuck's locations. I found one of them today and had my first Starbuck's coffee in 6 weeks. It was wonderful! I've included a picture of "the temple" (as my husband calls it).

I had planned to go to the Noailles market, but as I was walking up the main street Canebière, I noticed all kinds of people milling in a narrow alley to the right. It turned out to be a bustling market primarily of fruits and vegetables. I think it was the Capucins market. 

At that point, I was near Le Cours Joulien district which was another place I had read about and wanted to visit. As described on the Internet,  it really was lively and colorful, but unfortunately, most of the shops and restaurants were closed when I was there. I keep forgetting that many of the shop owners close for several hours in the afternoon for lunch and then reopen around 4. In the heart of the district, there were outdoor restaurants, bars and a playground for the kids and every spot was busy. Here are a couple of pictures from le Cours Julien including one of a street that reminds me a bit of San Francisco.

Graffiti in Le Cours Julien, but it is everywhere in France

By this time, it was late afternoon, so I decided to make my way back to the train station. After only a day and seeing such a small part of the city, it is unfair to come up with any sweeping generalizations. My first impressions of this city are that it is lively, energetic and busy, however, but I'm not sure it is a place I would rush back to. Next week, I'm off to Toulouse!